For the best sharpening, boost contrast at the highest frequencies visible in your output resolution. EqualiserĮnhances local contrast at freely selectable frequency ranges. This can help to avoid the sharpening of noise.
It also has a third slider, Threshold, which sets a threshold for how big the difference between two pixels should be for sharpening to begin. It resembles the good old Unsharp Mask, with the two sliders Radius and Amount. And if this sharpening is done in the full size file, it will look more like overdone local contrast than sharpening. Small file sizes require sharpening on a larger scale. If you zoom in to 100% and sharpen the very finest details, this sharpening will never be visible in the Instagram file. Say you export a small file for Instagram, a medium sized file for a web site and a full size file for printing. You should learn them all and decide for yourself in each situation.Īlso, Sharpening should be done at the very end of your workflow, and ideally you would sharpen for each output resolution. Therefore I don’t want to say anything about when to use which method. They work in different ways but the results are very similar. There are three ways to apply sharpening in Darktable: Sharpen, Equalizer and the High Pass filter. It may be tempting to oversharpen in order to «fix» bad focus or motion blur from camera shake, but as this would be the same as restoring detail that just isn’t there, it should be avoided. It should be used with great care, and mostly to give a little bit of extra pop to already reasonably sharp images.
Hugin would be a better option for at least the alignment part of that.Sharpening is a very delicate subject. To manually align them in Gimp or something similar and mask the sky Think Darktable can really do that level of compositing. If you shot these on a tripod, you can select them both in the light
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